Wednesday, October 17, 2007
Tuesday, October 16, 2007
Getting Around
The easiest and the quickest, though most expensive way to travel around Egypt is by domestic air travel. Egyptair offer a range of daily flights between the larger cities.From Cairo you can get an airport bus which makes several stops between the airport and the Pyramids Road in Giza. Alternatively there are always lots of taxis waiting at the airport to take visitors to their hotels and the same applies to Luxor, Aswan and other airports. 
The whole of the Nile Valley from Alexandria to Aswan is covered by a rail service run by the Egyptian government, but when trying to book a ticket on these trains visitors are often told that they are only allowed to travel on the 'tourist train'. This is a sleeper train which runs daily from Cairo to Aswan operated by a private company, Wagon Lits and is superbly comfortable even without a sleeper compartment. It is advisable to book tickets at least a day in advance. Otherwise, if you are prepared for an argument at the ticket office, you can travel on any of the frequent government trains which are less expensive and less comfortable.Air-conditioned coaches operate throughout Egypt and are generally inexpensive with two coaches a day between Cairo and Aswan, but be prepared for a long journey. There are also local buses without air-conditioning between all Egyptian towns. Check the main bus terminals for details of times and costs. It often costs only a little more to travel in the more comfortable coaches.
Cairo
In Cairo and Alexandria there are metro routes covering many parts of the cities. This is an easy, exceptionally clean and inexpensive way to travel around and the underground trains run at very frequent intervals all day. A single journey on the Cairo metro costs 50 piastres (EGP 0.50). The entrance to underground stations can be recognised by a circular sign with an 'M' in the centre. In Cairo the metro system is currently being extended. There are usually separate coaches at the front of the trains for women and I would recommend their use by women travelling alone. They are usually much less crowded than the rest of the train and you will not be hassled or treated as an object of curiosity.There are two types of buses in Cairo. Large overcrowded buses travel routes throughout the city, often with a dozen children hanging on to the sides and you can get to most places on these routes. Smaller more comfortable buses which do not allow standing also operate the major routes. They are an inexpensive way to travel.Taking a taxi in Cairo could be the experience of a lifetime. Hang on to your hat and be prepared for a rollercoaster journey through the city, at least when you are not stuck in a traffic jam. There is supposed to be a standard metered tariff for all 
journeys which is strictly enforced (EGP 5 for each city district covered in a journey). You can hire a taxi by the day for an agreed price, but make sure the driver knows where you want to go and how to get there and always agree a price before you set off. Taxis are available anywhere, but will always be waiting outside the big hotels. Taxis in Cairo operate by district. If you are staying outside the city centre you may find that a taxi driver will not be able to take you to the other side of the city - this is because they may only have a licence for their local district. Taxis outside the larger tourist hotels usually have an 'all Cairo' licence. You can also hail a 'service taxi' which is shared by other people who are going your way.
Luxor
Taxis are the easiest way to get around Luxor. Any journey within the town centre should cost EGP 5 and EGP 10 from one end of town to the other, that is, from the south of town to Karnak. This is the price for the car, not for each person. As in Cairo, you can hire a car for the day by agreeing a price with the driver, which is worked out by kilometres.In Luxor, caleches or horse-carriages operate in the same way as taxis for short journeys. This is a more leisurely way to get about and can be cool and pleasant on a warm day or evening. The prices should be the same as taxis, though the caleche drivers seem to argue more. Agree a price for your journey first. The drivers may often try to take you on a roundabout route calling at papyrus shops and bazaars at which they get commission, or they will suggest a visit to the camel market. Be warned, this is only open on a Tuesday! If you don't want to do this be firm!
There are microbuses or 'arabayas' which operate on circuits around the town and this is a very inexpensive way to get around once you know the routes. Any journey in an arabaya costs 25 piastres (EGP 0.25). You can get on and off anywhere on the route, but they can get very crowded and you may have to share your seat with a basket full of live chickens. It's good fun if you like adventures.A passenger ferry operates from the Corniche to the West Bank all day and most of the night. These cross the Nile about every 15 minutes depending on the time of day and cost EGP 1 (for tourists) for each journey. Alternatively the owners of motor boats will constantly tout for your business and usually charge EGP 5 each for a single journey. Look out for Egyptians crossing by motor boats which operate the same way as the ferry and at the same price.One of the attractions of Luxor (and Aswan too) are the sailing boats or 'feluccas' by which you can cross the Nile or take a trip by the hour. Felucca trips usually cost EGP 15 to EGP 20 per hour for each person but it is worth bargaining as the competition is fierce.
On the West Bank there are taxis to hire. A return trip to the Valley of the Kings should cost around EGP 35 per car and the driver will either wait or come back for you at an agreed time. There are arabayas here too in the form of covered Peugeot pick-up trucks which do a circuit of the West Bank but do not go to the King's Valley. Just wave one down wherever you are and bang on the window to get off. They cost 25 piastres for any journey.You can also hire bicycles inexpensively in Luxor and on the West Bank. A good way to get around as there are no hills. There is no charge for bicycles on the ferry.I could go on. There are donkeys, camels, horses, with boys touting for business wherever you go.
Security
Since the mid-1990s there has been a threat to tourists from terrorist activities in Egypt, but no major incidents since 1997 and security has been stepped up drastically since then. This means that independent travel is not as easy as it once was. Armed police trucks accompany convoys of vehicles travelling out of the cities and it is practically impossible to go anywhere now without going in the convoy. In my opinion these are more dangerous than any threat they are there to prevent, as they travel very fast and seem to have many road accidents. Travelling this way will limit time spent at any site.If you are intending to travel in the desert it is best to check out local advice. A four wheel drive vehicle with a supply of good spare tyres is essential and many preparations are necessary before taking a trip. Your driver will be able to organise all of these but always check that there is a plentiful supply of the obvious things such as water, food and petrol. There is a small risk of unexploded mines (left over from previous conflicts) in some desert areas, so keep to the tracks and avoid areas marked as dangerous.Millions of tourists enjoy trouble free holidays in Egypt every year, so don't be put off by the events of the 1990s. Travel is as easy and as safe as it possibly can be and there will always be friendly Egyptian people anxious to make your holiday a happy one.
The whole of the Nile Valley from Alexandria to Aswan is covered by a rail service run by the Egyptian government, but when trying to book a ticket on these trains visitors are often told that they are only allowed to travel on the 'tourist train'. This is a sleeper train which runs daily from Cairo to Aswan operated by a private company, Wagon Lits and is superbly comfortable even without a sleeper compartment. It is advisable to book tickets at least a day in advance. Otherwise, if you are prepared for an argument at the ticket office, you can travel on any of the frequent government trains which are less expensive and less comfortable.Air-conditioned coaches operate throughout Egypt and are generally inexpensive with two coaches a day between Cairo and Aswan, but be prepared for a long journey. There are also local buses without air-conditioning between all Egyptian towns. Check the main bus terminals for details of times and costs. It often costs only a little more to travel in the more comfortable coaches.
Cairo
In Cairo and Alexandria there are metro routes covering many parts of the cities. This is an easy, exceptionally clean and inexpensive way to travel around and the underground trains run at very frequent intervals all day. A single journey on the Cairo metro costs 50 piastres (EGP 0.50). The entrance to underground stations can be recognised by a circular sign with an 'M' in the centre. In Cairo the metro system is currently being extended. There are usually separate coaches at the front of the trains for women and I would recommend their use by women travelling alone. They are usually much less crowded than the rest of the train and you will not be hassled or treated as an object of curiosity.There are two types of buses in Cairo. Large overcrowded buses travel routes throughout the city, often with a dozen children hanging on to the sides and you can get to most places on these routes. Smaller more comfortable buses which do not allow standing also operate the major routes. They are an inexpensive way to travel.Taking a taxi in Cairo could be the experience of a lifetime. Hang on to your hat and be prepared for a rollercoaster journey through the city, at least when you are not stuck in a traffic jam. There is supposed to be a standard metered tariff for all 
journeys which is strictly enforced (EGP 5 for each city district covered in a journey). You can hire a taxi by the day for an agreed price, but make sure the driver knows where you want to go and how to get there and always agree a price before you set off. Taxis are available anywhere, but will always be waiting outside the big hotels. Taxis in Cairo operate by district. If you are staying outside the city centre you may find that a taxi driver will not be able to take you to the other side of the city - this is because they may only have a licence for their local district. Taxis outside the larger tourist hotels usually have an 'all Cairo' licence. You can also hail a 'service taxi' which is shared by other people who are going your way.Luxor
Taxis are the easiest way to get around Luxor. Any journey within the town centre should cost EGP 5 and EGP 10 from one end of town to the other, that is, from the south of town to Karnak. This is the price for the car, not for each person. As in Cairo, you can hire a car for the day by agreeing a price with the driver, which is worked out by kilometres.In Luxor, caleches or horse-carriages operate in the same way as taxis for short journeys. This is a more leisurely way to get about and can be cool and pleasant on a warm day or evening. The prices should be the same as taxis, though the caleche drivers seem to argue more. Agree a price for your journey first. The drivers may often try to take you on a roundabout route calling at papyrus shops and bazaars at which they get commission, or they will suggest a visit to the camel market. Be warned, this is only open on a Tuesday! If you don't want to do this be firm!
There are microbuses or 'arabayas' which operate on circuits around the town and this is a very inexpensive way to get around once you know the routes. Any journey in an arabaya costs 25 piastres (EGP 0.25). You can get on and off anywhere on the route, but they can get very crowded and you may have to share your seat with a basket full of live chickens. It's good fun if you like adventures.A passenger ferry operates from the Corniche to the West Bank all day and most of the night. These cross the Nile about every 15 minutes depending on the time of day and cost EGP 1 (for tourists) for each journey. Alternatively the owners of motor boats will constantly tout for your business and usually charge EGP 5 each for a single journey. Look out for Egyptians crossing by motor boats which operate the same way as the ferry and at the same price.One of the attractions of Luxor (and Aswan too) are the sailing boats or 'feluccas' by which you can cross the Nile or take a trip by the hour. Felucca trips usually cost EGP 15 to EGP 20 per hour for each person but it is worth bargaining as the competition is fierce.
On the West Bank there are taxis to hire. A return trip to the Valley of the Kings should cost around EGP 35 per car and the driver will either wait or come back for you at an agreed time. There are arabayas here too in the form of covered Peugeot pick-up trucks which do a circuit of the West Bank but do not go to the King's Valley. Just wave one down wherever you are and bang on the window to get off. They cost 25 piastres for any journey.You can also hire bicycles inexpensively in Luxor and on the West Bank. A good way to get around as there are no hills. There is no charge for bicycles on the ferry.I could go on. There are donkeys, camels, horses, with boys touting for business wherever you go.
Security
Since the mid-1990s there has been a threat to tourists from terrorist activities in Egypt, but no major incidents since 1997 and security has been stepped up drastically since then. This means that independent travel is not as easy as it once was. Armed police trucks accompany convoys of vehicles travelling out of the cities and it is practically impossible to go anywhere now without going in the convoy. In my opinion these are more dangerous than any threat they are there to prevent, as they travel very fast and seem to have many road accidents. Travelling this way will limit time spent at any site.If you are intending to travel in the desert it is best to check out local advice. A four wheel drive vehicle with a supply of good spare tyres is essential and many preparations are necessary before taking a trip. Your driver will be able to organise all of these but always check that there is a plentiful supply of the obvious things such as water, food and petrol. There is a small risk of unexploded mines (left over from previous conflicts) in some desert areas, so keep to the tracks and avoid areas marked as dangerous.Millions of tourists enjoy trouble free holidays in Egypt every year, so don't be put off by the events of the 1990s. Travel is as easy and as safe as it possibly can be and there will always be friendly Egyptian people anxious to make your holiday a happy one.
Food and Drink
The range of food in Egypt is very wide and cosmopolitan. Mostly you will find dishes are a cross between Middle-Eastern and Mediterranean cuisine. Food is available in large restaurants or from street corner stalls and snack bars. The smaller snack-bars and cafes usually offer a good range of inexpensive lightly-spiced Egyptian food as well as sandwiches, pizzas and french fries. Falafel is a snack made from beans and is available freshly cooked on every street corner. Check out how clean the stall looks, as some of these places don't have running water or refrigeration.
The traditional Egyptian breakfast is 'ful' which is a kind of bean stew and extremely filling, but larger hotels will offer a buffet breakfast with just about anything you could possibly imagine, including a wide range of breads and cakes. Smaller hotels tend to stick to a continental breakfast of croissants or bread rolls with jam or cheese, and sometimes eggs. Yoghurt is also popular.Egyptian people often eat their main meal at lunchtime and this is usually chicken or beef with rice and vegetables and may be preceded by a soup. Pork is rarely seen in Egypt as it is considered unclean by Muslims. Bread accompanies every meal and there are many types of breads in different regions. The common 'Aysh' or Egyptian bread is an unleavened circle of coarse dough (and sand) a little like pitta bread, or larger loaves or rolls of risen white dough. Bakeries are abundant and the choice of pastries and very sweet cakes makes your mouth water.
A similar but smaller meal is eaten at sunset by Egyptians, but tourists tend to have their main meal in the evening, often quite late. A three course meal in a hotel will cost anything from around EGP 40 upwards, whereas you can get a three course meal in a local cafe for around EGP 20. In Cairo there are many Western-style fast food restaurants, including places like McDonalds and Pizza Hut and there is even a McDonalds in Luxor now. They are inexpensive compared to their branches in Europe.
Egypt is famous for its coffee shops, the traditional place where men go in the evening for a game of dominoes or backgammon. There will usually be a television blasting out a loud football game in Arabic. In these pavement cafes you can have a cup of coffee (Nescafe or Egyptian coffee), tea or a soft drink and watch the world go by. Western women are just about tolerated now in these places but you will rarely see Egyptian women here except maybe in Cairo.Tea is a traditional drink in Egypt and you will probably drink gallons of it while there, whether you like it or not. It is made by boiling a powdery form of tea leaves in a kettle of water until it is stewed, and then a large quantity of sugar is added. It is served in small glasses without handles. Coffee, unless you ask for Nescafe, will be similar to Turkish coffee, served in tiny cups with a thick residue of coffee grains in the bottom. This will also be very sweet unless you ask for only a little or no sugar.The more traditional Muslims do not drink alcohol although they are tolerant of visitors drinking in moderation. Alcoholic drinks are usually confined to the bars of larger hotels and restaurants and can be very expensive, but limited stocks are now available in some supermarkets. A local beer called Stella, a fairly weak lager, is available in many places as is Stella Export which is stronger and more expensive. Several types of reasonable Egyptian wines are also available, but expensive.
Naturally, bottled water and soft drinks are available everywhere. Try juice stalls on the street where you can get freshly squeezed fruit juices depending on the season for around EGP 6 per glass. Mango, guava, sugarcane, or strawberry are just a few of the many to tempt you on a hot day.
Money Matters
Egyptian currency consists of Egyptian Pounds (EGP, locally written as LE). There are 100 piastres in EGP 1. Coins range from 10 piastres to EGP 1, but are not as common as the equivalent notes, which range in size from 25 piastres to EGP 1000. The table below, updated every Friday, shows rates of exchange against the Egyptian Pound and movement since previous week.
There is a limit of EGP 5,000 taken into or out of Egypt. It is wise to take travellers cheques for safety and these can be exchanged at any bank. Alternatively you usually get a better deal for cash in GBP or USD and many of the large hotels now have exchange machines which take cash or credit cards. Independent travellers should be aware that many Egyptian hotels and travel agencies now require payment in US dollars. Major credit cards can be used for cash advances in banks and exchanges and now for purchases in many large tourist hotels, stores and restaurants. It may be useful to know that Exchange 'shops' will often be open all day, whereas banks and travel agents may close for part of the afternoon. It is worth checking out banking hours to avoid disappointment! Scottish and Northern Ireland banknotes are not accepted in Egypt.
50 Egyptian Pound 100 Egyptian Pound
There is a limit of EGP 5,000 taken into or out of Egypt. It is wise to take travellers cheques for safety and these can be exchanged at any bank. Alternatively you usually get a better deal for cash in GBP or USD and many of the large hotels now have exchange machines which take cash or credit cards. Independent travellers should be aware that many Egyptian hotels and travel agencies now require payment in US dollars. Major credit cards can be used for cash advances in banks and exchanges and now for purchases in many large tourist hotels, stores and restaurants. It may be useful to know that Exchange 'shops' will often be open all day, whereas banks and travel agents may close for part of the afternoon. It is worth checking out banking hours to avoid disappointment! Scottish and Northern Ireland banknotes are not accepted in Egypt.1 Egyptian Pound 5 Egyptian Pound
10 Egyptian Pound 20 Egyptian Pound
50 Egyptian Pound 100 Egyptian Pound
200 Egyptian Pound
Generally most goods and services in Egypt seem to be very good value, but there is a system of bargaining for everything you need, from hotel accommodation to taxis and souvenirs. Some of the larger tourist shops have fixed prices, but in the local markets (bazaars or suqs) bargaining is a way of life - so leave plenty of time for shopping. Asking prices will be very high to begin with and drop rapidly depending on how much interest you show and walking away will often be the way to get prices reduced. It is great fun to bargain and I work on the assumption that I can usually get things for around one third or one quarter of the original asking price. It depends on how much something is worth to me. Remember that Egyptian tradesmen need to make a living too. Shopping often means having a cup of tea or cold drink in almost every stall in the market and half an hour of general conversation (or translating letters from foreign friends) before getting down to the business of prices. You are under no obligation to buy, so don't feel guilty if you change your mind. If you do make a purchase it is a good idea to keep plenty of small notes as vendors in smaller shops often don't have change and you may have to wait while they go in search of your change.
Baksheesh or tipping is also a way of life - a kind of unofficial purchase tax on all goods and services and you will need to keep plenty of small notes on you at all times. The level of baksheesh is entirely up to the individual and how much you value the service you have had. As a general rule a tip of EGP 1 to EGP 5 is usually acceptable. This is a small amount to the tourist but is often a large portion of income to an Egyptian, whose monthly wage would not even cover our weekly food bill at home. They usually have large extended families to support on very little money.Hotel staff, taxi drivers, shopkeepers and guards or guides at the monuments would expect tips, but do not offer baksheesh to professional people, or to policemen (who are not officially allowed to accept money from tourists).
Monday, October 15, 2007
Giza Southern Cemetery
Tomb of Seshemnefer IV
Near the south-east corner of the pyramid of Khufu is the mastaba of Seshemnefer IV, which has been newly restored by the Egyptian Antiquities Organisation, with a new roof, and thorough cleaning of the reliefs. Seshemnefer IV was obviously a favoured official, 'Overseer of the Two Seats of the House of Life', and 'Guardian of the King's Secrets', during Dynasty VI. One of the largest tombs at Giza, Seshemnefer's porticoed tomb has an impressive façade with two columns. At either side of the portico, life-sized seated statues of the deceased official watch out over the Giza Plateau. The vestibule leads to an inner and outer hall and an offering chamber. Scenes within the tomb include reliefs of the deceased, daily life in the Old Kingdom and the usual funerary scenes. There is a sloping burial shaft into which the intrepid visitor is sometimes allowed.
Tomb of Nefermaat (G7060)
This tomb belongs to a group of recently restored and newly opened tombs immediately to the south of Khufu's queens' pyramids. Nefermaat is named as 'King's Son', 'Hereditary Prince', 'Vizier of Khafre' and 'Overlord of Nekheb' during the Dynasty IV reigns of Khufu and Khafre. His mother is named as Nefertkau (probably tomb G7050).The mastaba of this important official and member of the royal family, today consists mainly of the tomb-chapel, which is decorated with the usual agricultural and offering scenes of the period. Nefermaat is depicted in one scene with his wife before scribes and men bringing animals and birds (including cranes) and in another he sits at the banquet with his dog under his chair, being entertained by musicians and clappers. Unfortunately his wife's name is lost in the reliefs, but he is shown in another scene with his son, Senefrkaef, whose tomb (G7070) is adjacent. At the rear of the chamber is a false door of Nefermaat.
Tomb of Senefrukaef (G7070)
Senerfrukaef was the son of Nefermaat, and he was 'Treasurer of the King of Lower Egypt' and 'Herdsman of Apis' during late Dynasty IV to early Dynasty V. His mastaba now consists of the tomb-chapel, decorated with scenes of the owner and his family. On the lintel of the doorway there is an offering text and genealogy of Senefrukaef's family and he is depicted in reliefs in the chapel with his sons. The deceased also has a false door. An uninscribed limestone sarcophagus was found in the burial shaft, which is now in Cairo Museum.
Tomb of Debhen
The tomb of Debhen is a newly restored tomb to the south of Khafre's causeway. His titles were 'Lector Priest' and 'Overseer of the Divine Places of the Great Palace' during the Dynasty IV reign of Menkaure. He seems to have been a favourite of the king who gave this official permission to construct a tomb near his own pyramid as a gift, including white limestone from the royal Tura quarries across the river - an honour which is recorded in the tomb. The tomb is beautifully decorated with interesting unpainted reliefs of daily life, many animals and also a depiction of a dwarf.
Tomb of Yun-min
The tomb of Yun-min (Iun-min) is close to that of Debhen, to the south of Khafre's causeway. Yun-min was the 'Vizier', 'Judge' and eldest son of Menkaure of Dynasty IV. The walls of his tomb-chapel containing two chambers have no reliefs but the doorway of the inner chamber is elaborately decorated.
Photography is no longer allowed inside any of the tombs.
Near the south-east corner of the pyramid of Khufu is the mastaba of Seshemnefer IV, which has been newly restored by the Egyptian Antiquities Organisation, with a new roof, and thorough cleaning of the reliefs. Seshemnefer IV was obviously a favoured official, 'Overseer of the Two Seats of the House of Life', and 'Guardian of the King's Secrets', during Dynasty VI. One of the largest tombs at Giza, Seshemnefer's porticoed tomb has an impressive façade with two columns. At either side of the portico, life-sized seated statues of the deceased official watch out over the Giza Plateau. The vestibule leads to an inner and outer hall and an offering chamber. Scenes within the tomb include reliefs of the deceased, daily life in the Old Kingdom and the usual funerary scenes. There is a sloping burial shaft into which the intrepid visitor is sometimes allowed.
Tomb of Nefermaat (G7060)
This tomb belongs to a group of recently restored and newly opened tombs immediately to the south of Khufu's queens' pyramids. Nefermaat is named as 'King's Son', 'Hereditary Prince', 'Vizier of Khafre' and 'Overlord of Nekheb' during the Dynasty IV reigns of Khufu and Khafre. His mother is named as Nefertkau (probably tomb G7050).The mastaba of this important official and member of the royal family, today consists mainly of the tomb-chapel, which is decorated with the usual agricultural and offering scenes of the period. Nefermaat is depicted in one scene with his wife before scribes and men bringing animals and birds (including cranes) and in another he sits at the banquet with his dog under his chair, being entertained by musicians and clappers. Unfortunately his wife's name is lost in the reliefs, but he is shown in another scene with his son, Senefrkaef, whose tomb (G7070) is adjacent. At the rear of the chamber is a false door of Nefermaat.
Tomb of Senefrukaef (G7070)
Senerfrukaef was the son of Nefermaat, and he was 'Treasurer of the King of Lower Egypt' and 'Herdsman of Apis' during late Dynasty IV to early Dynasty V. His mastaba now consists of the tomb-chapel, decorated with scenes of the owner and his family. On the lintel of the doorway there is an offering text and genealogy of Senefrukaef's family and he is depicted in reliefs in the chapel with his sons. The deceased also has a false door. An uninscribed limestone sarcophagus was found in the burial shaft, which is now in Cairo Museum.
Tomb of Debhen
The tomb of Debhen is a newly restored tomb to the south of Khafre's causeway. His titles were 'Lector Priest' and 'Overseer of the Divine Places of the Great Palace' during the Dynasty IV reign of Menkaure. He seems to have been a favourite of the king who gave this official permission to construct a tomb near his own pyramid as a gift, including white limestone from the royal Tura quarries across the river - an honour which is recorded in the tomb. The tomb is beautifully decorated with interesting unpainted reliefs of daily life, many animals and also a depiction of a dwarf.
Tomb of Yun-min
The tomb of Yun-min (Iun-min) is close to that of Debhen, to the south of Khafre's causeway. Yun-min was the 'Vizier', 'Judge' and eldest son of Menkaure of Dynasty IV. The walls of his tomb-chapel containing two chambers have no reliefs but the doorway of the inner chamber is elaborately decorated.
Photography is no longer allowed inside any of the tombs.
Giza Western Cemetery
The cemetery to the west of the Great Pyramid is the largest of the Old Kingdom cemeteries at Giza and contains the mortuary chapels of many high-status officials of Dynasty IV. The western necropolis, which can be divided roughly into three separate areas, is dominated by the massive mastaba G2000, which was undecorated but appears to have been built for a person of very high rank during the reigns of Khufu or Khafre. The western cemetery is formed by long streets of mastabas built in blocks and intersected by other streets like modern city blocks.
The Tomb of Duaenre (G5110)
Duaenre's tomb is one of the Giza tombs newly restored and opened to visitors. He was a son of the pharaoh Khafre and his mother was Meresankh III, whose tomb (G7530-7540) can be seen in the eastern cemetery. Duaenre held the office of 'Vizier of Menkaure' during the king's Dynasty IV reign.The tomb has an entrance on the eastern side which leads through a passage into the offering chapel. Remains of carved scenes of the deceased can be seen in the doorway, with his attendants carrying offerings behind him. Scenes on the walls of the chapel mostly represent offerings, with men bringing various animals, including gazelle, ibex and a goose as well as the usual illustrations of butchers. Another group of men carry other funerary goods and vessels, including a covered altar. On the western wall there are two false doors and on the southern wall is an opening into a serdab (statue chamber).When Duaenre's tomb was investigated by Shiaparelli around 1838, he found a burial shaft which contained an uninscribed red granite sarcophagus and lid, now in Turin Museum.
Tomb of Iymery (G6020)
When Lepsius entered this tomb at the south-western corner of the western cemetery, he named it the 'Tomb of Trades' because of its colourful painted reliefs depicting many industrial scenes, including carpenters, goldsmiths, jewellers and sculptors at work. The tomb was popular with travellers in the 19th century, who carved their names on its walls. Iymery was the son of Shepseskafankh (whose tomb is adjacent) and Nikauhathor, probably during the reign of Niuserre of Dynasty V. His titles include 'Prophet of Khufu', 'Steward of the Great Estate' and 'Scribe of the Archives'.The entrance to this large tomb is again on the eastern side, with steps leading down into a vestibule which is decorated with many beautiful and important scenes of craftsmen at work. In this chamber Iymery is seen with his father Shepseskafankh, and other family members, including his son Neferbauptah (tomb G6010). On the west wall scenes of food production are shown, which include the brewing of beer in all its stages. An entrance passage here leads to a long recatangular hall, which has on the left-hand wall, three openings into a long serdab chamber, interspersed with well-preserved agricultural and fowling scenes and the funeral banquet, with male musicians entertaining the guests while Iymery is seated in his chair. Fishing and fowling in the marshes is also shown on the opposite wall and many other agricultural pursuits show such themes as tilling the earth and the birth of a calf. In a smaller chamber at the end of the long hall there are more offering scenes with musicians and dancers below and on its western wall is a false door of Iymery. To the north of this tomb is the entrance to a narrow decorated corridor chapel with two offering niches, dedicated to the 'King's Aquaintance', Ity (G6030). Iymery's tomb has been recently restored and re-opened.
Tomb of Neferbauptah (G6010)
The tomb of Neferbauptah, the son of Iymery (G6020), has also undergone recent restoration and is open to visitors for the first time since discovery in the 1930s. The official's titles were 'Steward of the Great Estate', 'Prophet of Khufu, Sahure, Neferirkare and Niuserre' during middle to late Dynasty V.This large tomb comprises of five chambers plus a serdab on its southern side. The eastern entrance opens into a large courtyard containing two square pillars and the burial shaft but many of the scenes in this room are incomplete. An entrance to the south leads into another chamber with pillars and agricultural scenes on the walls. The third room to the south, is square in shape, again with two pillars and has three openings into the serdab chamber. Reliefs of the tomb-owner and his relatives can be seen around the doorway into a smaller chamber on the western wall. This small rectangular offering-chapel has the most important scenes in the tomb where the reliefs depict men bringing animals, including desert animals and cattle, led by the deceased's eldest son, Neferseshemptah. Neferbauptah is shown with is wife receiving these offerings. Texts record the agricultural products and amounts of crops. On the end wall the tomb-owner is seated and receives a lotus flower and other offerings, according to the prescribed lists. The western wall contains two false doors with offering lists and vignettes of the deceased seated at a table with funerary priests and offering-bringers before him. The tomb also contains a life-size statue of the deceased carved into the wall.
Tomb of Iasen (G2196)
Iasen, 'Tenant of the Royal House' and 'Overseer of Priests' during Dynasty V or VI, was the owner of a small rock-cut tomb at the western side of the western cemetery. The tomb's entrance leads into a long narrow vestibule with a false door stela. The main part of the tomb-chapel consists of a large rectangular room with a niche on the western wall containing a standing statue of Iasen, wearing a stiff triangular kilt, typical of the period. Reliefs in this chamber depict many scenes of offerings and preparation (including cooking scenes) for the funerary banquet. Musicians entertain the deceased, while men fill wine jars in the scene below. There are many colourful scenes of daily life and agriculture in this tomb. A small unfinished room is cut into the rock on the southern side of the chapel.
Tomb of Senedjemib-inty (G2370)
Several mastaba tombs dating to late Dynasty V and are grouped together in a modern courtyard at the north-west corner of the Great Pyramid. When investigated by Reisner's team during the first half of the 20th century they were found to be in a poor state of preservation, but four of the tombs have recently been restored with the addition of protective ceilings, new wooden floors and lighting and the reconstruction of missing pillars and damaged wall reliefs. They are now open to visitors.Senedjemib, whose 'good name' was Inty, was 'Chief Justice and Vizier', 'King's Architect and Builder in the Two Houses' during the reign of Djedkare-Isesi of Dynasty V. His tomb chapel, fronted by a portico, consists of four other chambers, the last of which was a pillared hall containing the sloping burial shaft, where the inscribed granite sarcophagus of the tomb-owner was found. Unpainted reliefs in the tomb show many important scenes of daily life in the Old Kingdom, including industrial, agricultural and nautical scenes and priests performing the funeral rites. The deceased is portrayed in the pillared hall with his wife Thefi and his son, Senedjemib-mehu.
Tomb of Khnum-inty (G2374)
Khnum-inty, whose tomb is close to that of his father Senedjemib-inty, was a royal scribe and 'Overseer of the Granary and of all the King's Work', probably during the reign of King Teti of early Dynasty VI. Blocks were found in the tomb-chapel bearing the name of Teti's pyramid and a bowl bearing Teti's cartouche was found in the burial shaft. The tomb-chapel contains the usual offering scenes and illustrates the funeral procession. There is also a large ornate but unfinished false door with an offering table before it.
Tomb of Akhetmehu (G2375)
Akhetmehu's titles were 'Judge and Elder of the Hall' and 'Overseer of the House of Weapons' during the time of Merenre I or Pepy II. His tomb-chapel contains scenes of daily life and religious rites during the Old Kingdom as well as an impressive false door behind inscribed pillars supported by an architrave. A burial shaft contained a box-sealing of the 'Inspector of Embalmers' with the Horus name of Merenre or Pepy II.
Tomb of Senedjemib-mehu (G2378)
Senedjemib, whose 'good name' was Mehu (or Mehi) was 'Chief Justice and Vizier' and 'King's Architect and Builder in the Two Houses' during the reign of Unas of Dynasty V. He was another son of Senedjemib-inty and Thefi and brother of Khnum-inty. His wife is named as Khentkawes, a 'King's Daughter' and 'Prophetess of Hathor'. His eldest son was also called Senedjemib and two other children were Mehi and Khentkawes.This tomb comprised a forecourt leading into a hall where many scenes are carved relating to the daily activities of the deceased and his family. There are remains of many industrial and agricultural scenes, and in the inner hall, reliefs of funerary rites and offerings. An unfinished false door of the deceased is located at the rear of the inner hall.Photography is no longer allowed inside any of the tombs.
The Tomb of Duaenre (G5110)
Duaenre's tomb is one of the Giza tombs newly restored and opened to visitors. He was a son of the pharaoh Khafre and his mother was Meresankh III, whose tomb (G7530-7540) can be seen in the eastern cemetery. Duaenre held the office of 'Vizier of Menkaure' during the king's Dynasty IV reign.The tomb has an entrance on the eastern side which leads through a passage into the offering chapel. Remains of carved scenes of the deceased can be seen in the doorway, with his attendants carrying offerings behind him. Scenes on the walls of the chapel mostly represent offerings, with men bringing various animals, including gazelle, ibex and a goose as well as the usual illustrations of butchers. Another group of men carry other funerary goods and vessels, including a covered altar. On the western wall there are two false doors and on the southern wall is an opening into a serdab (statue chamber).When Duaenre's tomb was investigated by Shiaparelli around 1838, he found a burial shaft which contained an uninscribed red granite sarcophagus and lid, now in Turin Museum.
Tomb of Iymery (G6020)
When Lepsius entered this tomb at the south-western corner of the western cemetery, he named it the 'Tomb of Trades' because of its colourful painted reliefs depicting many industrial scenes, including carpenters, goldsmiths, jewellers and sculptors at work. The tomb was popular with travellers in the 19th century, who carved their names on its walls. Iymery was the son of Shepseskafankh (whose tomb is adjacent) and Nikauhathor, probably during the reign of Niuserre of Dynasty V. His titles include 'Prophet of Khufu', 'Steward of the Great Estate' and 'Scribe of the Archives'.The entrance to this large tomb is again on the eastern side, with steps leading down into a vestibule which is decorated with many beautiful and important scenes of craftsmen at work. In this chamber Iymery is seen with his father Shepseskafankh, and other family members, including his son Neferbauptah (tomb G6010). On the west wall scenes of food production are shown, which include the brewing of beer in all its stages. An entrance passage here leads to a long recatangular hall, which has on the left-hand wall, three openings into a long serdab chamber, interspersed with well-preserved agricultural and fowling scenes and the funeral banquet, with male musicians entertaining the guests while Iymery is seated in his chair. Fishing and fowling in the marshes is also shown on the opposite wall and many other agricultural pursuits show such themes as tilling the earth and the birth of a calf. In a smaller chamber at the end of the long hall there are more offering scenes with musicians and dancers below and on its western wall is a false door of Iymery. To the north of this tomb is the entrance to a narrow decorated corridor chapel with two offering niches, dedicated to the 'King's Aquaintance', Ity (G6030). Iymery's tomb has been recently restored and re-opened.
Tomb of Neferbauptah (G6010)
The tomb of Neferbauptah, the son of Iymery (G6020), has also undergone recent restoration and is open to visitors for the first time since discovery in the 1930s. The official's titles were 'Steward of the Great Estate', 'Prophet of Khufu, Sahure, Neferirkare and Niuserre' during middle to late Dynasty V.This large tomb comprises of five chambers plus a serdab on its southern side. The eastern entrance opens into a large courtyard containing two square pillars and the burial shaft but many of the scenes in this room are incomplete. An entrance to the south leads into another chamber with pillars and agricultural scenes on the walls. The third room to the south, is square in shape, again with two pillars and has three openings into the serdab chamber. Reliefs of the tomb-owner and his relatives can be seen around the doorway into a smaller chamber on the western wall. This small rectangular offering-chapel has the most important scenes in the tomb where the reliefs depict men bringing animals, including desert animals and cattle, led by the deceased's eldest son, Neferseshemptah. Neferbauptah is shown with is wife receiving these offerings. Texts record the agricultural products and amounts of crops. On the end wall the tomb-owner is seated and receives a lotus flower and other offerings, according to the prescribed lists. The western wall contains two false doors with offering lists and vignettes of the deceased seated at a table with funerary priests and offering-bringers before him. The tomb also contains a life-size statue of the deceased carved into the wall.
Tomb of Iasen (G2196)
Iasen, 'Tenant of the Royal House' and 'Overseer of Priests' during Dynasty V or VI, was the owner of a small rock-cut tomb at the western side of the western cemetery. The tomb's entrance leads into a long narrow vestibule with a false door stela. The main part of the tomb-chapel consists of a large rectangular room with a niche on the western wall containing a standing statue of Iasen, wearing a stiff triangular kilt, typical of the period. Reliefs in this chamber depict many scenes of offerings and preparation (including cooking scenes) for the funerary banquet. Musicians entertain the deceased, while men fill wine jars in the scene below. There are many colourful scenes of daily life and agriculture in this tomb. A small unfinished room is cut into the rock on the southern side of the chapel.
Tomb of Senedjemib-inty (G2370)
Several mastaba tombs dating to late Dynasty V and are grouped together in a modern courtyard at the north-west corner of the Great Pyramid. When investigated by Reisner's team during the first half of the 20th century they were found to be in a poor state of preservation, but four of the tombs have recently been restored with the addition of protective ceilings, new wooden floors and lighting and the reconstruction of missing pillars and damaged wall reliefs. They are now open to visitors.Senedjemib, whose 'good name' was Inty, was 'Chief Justice and Vizier', 'King's Architect and Builder in the Two Houses' during the reign of Djedkare-Isesi of Dynasty V. His tomb chapel, fronted by a portico, consists of four other chambers, the last of which was a pillared hall containing the sloping burial shaft, where the inscribed granite sarcophagus of the tomb-owner was found. Unpainted reliefs in the tomb show many important scenes of daily life in the Old Kingdom, including industrial, agricultural and nautical scenes and priests performing the funeral rites. The deceased is portrayed in the pillared hall with his wife Thefi and his son, Senedjemib-mehu.
Tomb of Khnum-inty (G2374)
Khnum-inty, whose tomb is close to that of his father Senedjemib-inty, was a royal scribe and 'Overseer of the Granary and of all the King's Work', probably during the reign of King Teti of early Dynasty VI. Blocks were found in the tomb-chapel bearing the name of Teti's pyramid and a bowl bearing Teti's cartouche was found in the burial shaft. The tomb-chapel contains the usual offering scenes and illustrates the funeral procession. There is also a large ornate but unfinished false door with an offering table before it.
Tomb of Akhetmehu (G2375)
Akhetmehu's titles were 'Judge and Elder of the Hall' and 'Overseer of the House of Weapons' during the time of Merenre I or Pepy II. His tomb-chapel contains scenes of daily life and religious rites during the Old Kingdom as well as an impressive false door behind inscribed pillars supported by an architrave. A burial shaft contained a box-sealing of the 'Inspector of Embalmers' with the Horus name of Merenre or Pepy II.
Tomb of Senedjemib-mehu (G2378)
Senedjemib, whose 'good name' was Mehu (or Mehi) was 'Chief Justice and Vizier' and 'King's Architect and Builder in the Two Houses' during the reign of Unas of Dynasty V. He was another son of Senedjemib-inty and Thefi and brother of Khnum-inty. His wife is named as Khentkawes, a 'King's Daughter' and 'Prophetess of Hathor'. His eldest son was also called Senedjemib and two other children were Mehi and Khentkawes.This tomb comprised a forecourt leading into a hall where many scenes are carved relating to the daily activities of the deceased and his family. There are remains of many industrial and agricultural scenes, and in the inner hall, reliefs of funerary rites and offerings. An unfinished false door of the deceased is located at the rear of the inner hall.Photography is no longer allowed inside any of the tombs.
Giza Eastern Cemetery
This group of tombs is located immediately to the east of Khufu's queens' pyramids and arranged roughly into seven rows. The largest mastaba in this cemetery belongs to Prince Ankh-haf (G7510) which is in the north-east corner, while at the other end of the row, near her pyramid, is the burial shaft of Queen Hetepheres (G7000x) where her wonderful funerary treasures were discovered by Reisner.
Tomb of Qar (G7101)
The mastaba of Qar lies to the east of the pyramid belonging to Queen Hetepheres and next to her tomb-shaft. This official, also known as Meryrenefer, or Kar, was 'Overseer of the Pyramid Towns of Khufu and Menkaure', 'Inspector of wab-priests of the Pyramid of Khafre' and 'Tenant of the Pyramid of Pepy I', probably during the Dynasty VI reign of Pepy I or II. His wife Gefi, a 'Prophetess of Hathor', is known from tomb inscriptions.The tomb entrance is down a flight of steps which lead into a passage which in turn opens up into a hall with pillars supporting an architrave, richly worked in incised hieroglyphs. On the faces of the pillars the tomb-owner is shown in various stages of his life. The wall to the right of the entrance depicts the funerary rites, with Qar seated at a table to receive offerings. He is shown in a similar manner with his wife on the western wall, with offering lists and illustrations of the funeral procession - the purification tent and embalming-house are the focus of the ceremonies. On the southern wall, statues of the deceased and his family, including his young son are sculpted in high relief and another statue of Qar sits in a niche on the eastern wall, where there are more offerings.An offering chamber is entered from the western wall and here there are more offering scenes and texts. In the doorway there are more reliefs of the deceased. The false door of Qar is set into the western wall of the offering chamber with offerings and offering-bringers to either side.
Tomb of Idu (G7102)
Idu is thought to have been the father (or son?) of Qar, and his smaller mastaba is adjacent to the previous one. He also held the title of 'Tenant of the Pyramid of Pepy I' as well as 'Overseer of Scribes of the mrt (royal documents?)', 'Inspector of wab-priests of the Pyramids of Khufu and Khafre' during the reign of Pepy I. The relationship mentioned in his tomb with Meryrenefer (Qar) and Gefi is uncertain.A staircase descends to a large vestibule and to a passage into the single long rectangular offering chapel. On either side of the doorway are depictions of mourners at Idu's house, the purification tent and the funeral procession. On the long western wall there are five large niches containing statues of Idu plus a smaller one on the left of his son, Qar, with their names and titles in beautifully carved hieroglyphs. At the end of the western wall there is a scene depicting men and cattle returning from the marshes. Idu is shown seated on a palanquin on the northern wall, watching scenes of activities including children's games, dancers and musicians and the preparation of food and drink. In the centre of the east wall is a false door stela, painted to simulate granite. In the bottom half of the false door Idu's statue eerily rises out of the ground to receive his offerings and in a panel above, the deceased and his wife are shown sitting opposite each other at an offering table. Near the floor an offering bench is placed in front of this wall, which depicts offerings to be given to the tomb owner and his wife.
Tomb of Queen Meresankh III (G7530-7540)
The large and beautiful double-mastaba of Queen Meresankh III is situated just to the south of the huge tomb of Prince Ankh-haf (G7510). She is named as a 'Daughter of the King', the daughter of Kawab (a son of Khufu) and her mother was Hetepheres II. She was married to Khafre (Dynasty IV) who was in fact her half-brother.The entrance stairway leads down into the large main chamber of the tomb, which contains two square pillars and its walls are decorated with many beautiful and colourful reliefs of daily life in the Old Kingdom. Texts near the doorway give her name and titles with the date of her death and funeral. On the left hand side of the doorway, two sculptors whose names are given as Re'hay and Inkaf (identified by Reisner but now almost illegible), carve and paint statues of the Queen, while below other men are shown carving the funerary sarcophagus and false door. Goldworkers are also shown smelting gold and making a palanquin. On the southern wall, three niches contain six statues of men who are not identified but are thought to be scribes or priests. An incomplete false door stela on the western wall shows Meresankh seated at a table.The walls of this chamber show many interesting scenes of various industries - fowling, mat-making, furniture-making and agricultural and hunting scenes. Meresankh is shown with her mother Hetepheres gathering lotus flowers and catching birds. On the pillars of the main hall, the deceased Meresankh is depicted facing into the tomb and dressed in an elegant white robe. Her two sons, Niussere (later pharaoh) and Duaenre stand at her feet. The northern wall is a rock-cut extension to the large chamber which contains a group of ten statues varying in size. They are unidentified but are thought to represent the deceased four times, her mother three times and three daughters.The second chamber is smaller than the first and has two large openings leading into it. The left-hand wall is decorated with funerary scenes, offering lists and scribes bringing accounts of the estate. The small portion of wall between the doorways shows scenes of agriculture, and on the northern wall, food and wine is being prepared for the banquet, while musicians, singers and dancers entertain Meresankh who sits above holding a lotus flower and watching over the proceedings. These reliefs are unpainted. Two more niches on the western wall contain statues, probably of Meresankh and her mother with a false door between them.In 1927, in the second chamber, Reisner found a large burial shaft whose chamber contained Meresankh's black granite sarcophagus complete with the mummy of the queen (now in Cairo Museum). The sarcophagus has a palace-façade decoration and was presented to Meresankh by her mother Hetepheres.Photography is no longer allowed inside any of the tombs.
Tomb of Qar (G7101)
The mastaba of Qar lies to the east of the pyramid belonging to Queen Hetepheres and next to her tomb-shaft. This official, also known as Meryrenefer, or Kar, was 'Overseer of the Pyramid Towns of Khufu and Menkaure', 'Inspector of wab-priests of the Pyramid of Khafre' and 'Tenant of the Pyramid of Pepy I', probably during the Dynasty VI reign of Pepy I or II. His wife Gefi, a 'Prophetess of Hathor', is known from tomb inscriptions.The tomb entrance is down a flight of steps which lead into a passage which in turn opens up into a hall with pillars supporting an architrave, richly worked in incised hieroglyphs. On the faces of the pillars the tomb-owner is shown in various stages of his life. The wall to the right of the entrance depicts the funerary rites, with Qar seated at a table to receive offerings. He is shown in a similar manner with his wife on the western wall, with offering lists and illustrations of the funeral procession - the purification tent and embalming-house are the focus of the ceremonies. On the southern wall, statues of the deceased and his family, including his young son are sculpted in high relief and another statue of Qar sits in a niche on the eastern wall, where there are more offerings.An offering chamber is entered from the western wall and here there are more offering scenes and texts. In the doorway there are more reliefs of the deceased. The false door of Qar is set into the western wall of the offering chamber with offerings and offering-bringers to either side.
Tomb of Idu (G7102)
Idu is thought to have been the father (or son?) of Qar, and his smaller mastaba is adjacent to the previous one. He also held the title of 'Tenant of the Pyramid of Pepy I' as well as 'Overseer of Scribes of the mrt (royal documents?)', 'Inspector of wab-priests of the Pyramids of Khufu and Khafre' during the reign of Pepy I. The relationship mentioned in his tomb with Meryrenefer (Qar) and Gefi is uncertain.A staircase descends to a large vestibule and to a passage into the single long rectangular offering chapel. On either side of the doorway are depictions of mourners at Idu's house, the purification tent and the funeral procession. On the long western wall there are five large niches containing statues of Idu plus a smaller one on the left of his son, Qar, with their names and titles in beautifully carved hieroglyphs. At the end of the western wall there is a scene depicting men and cattle returning from the marshes. Idu is shown seated on a palanquin on the northern wall, watching scenes of activities including children's games, dancers and musicians and the preparation of food and drink. In the centre of the east wall is a false door stela, painted to simulate granite. In the bottom half of the false door Idu's statue eerily rises out of the ground to receive his offerings and in a panel above, the deceased and his wife are shown sitting opposite each other at an offering table. Near the floor an offering bench is placed in front of this wall, which depicts offerings to be given to the tomb owner and his wife.
Tomb of Queen Meresankh III (G7530-7540)
The large and beautiful double-mastaba of Queen Meresankh III is situated just to the south of the huge tomb of Prince Ankh-haf (G7510). She is named as a 'Daughter of the King', the daughter of Kawab (a son of Khufu) and her mother was Hetepheres II. She was married to Khafre (Dynasty IV) who was in fact her half-brother.The entrance stairway leads down into the large main chamber of the tomb, which contains two square pillars and its walls are decorated with many beautiful and colourful reliefs of daily life in the Old Kingdom. Texts near the doorway give her name and titles with the date of her death and funeral. On the left hand side of the doorway, two sculptors whose names are given as Re'hay and Inkaf (identified by Reisner but now almost illegible), carve and paint statues of the Queen, while below other men are shown carving the funerary sarcophagus and false door. Goldworkers are also shown smelting gold and making a palanquin. On the southern wall, three niches contain six statues of men who are not identified but are thought to be scribes or priests. An incomplete false door stela on the western wall shows Meresankh seated at a table.The walls of this chamber show many interesting scenes of various industries - fowling, mat-making, furniture-making and agricultural and hunting scenes. Meresankh is shown with her mother Hetepheres gathering lotus flowers and catching birds. On the pillars of the main hall, the deceased Meresankh is depicted facing into the tomb and dressed in an elegant white robe. Her two sons, Niussere (later pharaoh) and Duaenre stand at her feet. The northern wall is a rock-cut extension to the large chamber which contains a group of ten statues varying in size. They are unidentified but are thought to represent the deceased four times, her mother three times and three daughters.The second chamber is smaller than the first and has two large openings leading into it. The left-hand wall is decorated with funerary scenes, offering lists and scribes bringing accounts of the estate. The small portion of wall between the doorways shows scenes of agriculture, and on the northern wall, food and wine is being prepared for the banquet, while musicians, singers and dancers entertain Meresankh who sits above holding a lotus flower and watching over the proceedings. These reliefs are unpainted. Two more niches on the western wall contain statues, probably of Meresankh and her mother with a false door between them.In 1927, in the second chamber, Reisner found a large burial shaft whose chamber contained Meresankh's black granite sarcophagus complete with the mummy of the queen (now in Cairo Museum). The sarcophagus has a palace-façade decoration and was presented to Meresankh by her mother Hetepheres.Photography is no longer allowed inside any of the tombs.
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